It’s Galliano, bitch

English version. Scroll-aj dolje člankom za Hrvatski.


John Galliano, after a long break and hiding from the showbiz lights driven by the alcoholic statements filled with anti-Semitic hatred, is having a comeback as a creative director of Paris based fashion house Maison Margiela. He had his ups and downs, received love as much as hatred. Starting from his creations that aren’t appealing to an average consumer all towards his public statements. Public statements filled with hatred that were until 2015 taken up as a pure end of Galliano era. Everyone who followed Galliano’s path know that he definitely earned his title through hard work and an endless creativity, but nevertheless, know Galliano doesn’t surrender.

Even if you despise term of fashion in the context of art and by that find it overly pretentious, or if you are on the other side with fashion enthusiasts translating every stitch as brush movement of your favorite artist; all of you must agree on one – Galliano is a fucking fabulous mastermind. The person whose creations are not pretentious, but I dare to say, selfish. All of them are making a plot to his personal lifecycle. If you ask majority of Galliano lovers when was the point of falling in love with Galliano, everyone would say the same – first debutant show for Dior Haute Couture. And that’s the same answer I would give you, since at that moment my love towards Galliano was enormous. The collection inspired by French homeless that raised so many empowered fashion eyebrows left everyone blabbering. My own Galliano critique came from a mind of fashion laic that I was then, constantly sucking the inspiration of grunge movement with idols like ‘all eyes on me’ Deep/Moss love couple.

When I think about it now, thank God we didn’t know about those cheesy couple name mixing. Since Meep sounds so not cute. Ew.

Therefore my Galliano critique throughout this short article is by all means a bit partial. Although. If your bodyguards are fashion power people who are spilling their emotions and excitement as well as love hate relationship towards Galliano constantly, what’s the amount of partial transmitted to the objective thinking? It’s all up to you to decide how much is someone really able to change as well as how much someones creativity worths. I’m not quite sure was it for the London location of Galliano’s comeback tour with Maison Margiela Spring Couture 2015, or for the royal red that evolves throughout whole collection of asymmetric and destructive pieces while every piece consists of Galliano’s theatral note; but what it’s certain is that it sets tons of questions like:

Are these the very best creations of Galliano, or just corrosion over his creative mind? Should we set our expectations even higher or that will do only worse to already weaken inner state of mind of Galliano? While having that love hate relationship between Galliano and fashion royalty since the 2015 comeback one thing is certain – after his new beginning Galliano became a fashion fighter in an arena he is leading because of one thing – love towards creating.

 


Croatian version. Hrvatski.


John Galliano, nakon poduže pauze i skrivanja od showbiz reflektora izazvanih izjavama prožetih antisemitizmom u alkoholiziranom stanju, vraća se u punom sjaju kao kreativni director modne kuće Maison Margiela.Imao je svojih uspona i padova, primao ljubav u istoj mjeri kao i mržnju. Počevši za svoje kreacije koje nisu shvatljive svakom pojedincu, jednako kao i za svoje javne ispade. Javne ispade mržnje za koje se donedavno smatralo kako su okončali eru Galliana. No, svi znaju da Galliano koji je svoju titulu zaradio iskrenim radom i kreativnošću kojom odiše, ne posustaje samo tako.

Iako možda prezirete pojam mode u kontekstu umjetnosti i smatrate nešto takvo krajnje pretencioznim ili ste opet na drugoj strani modnih entuzijasta te je svaki šav za vas interpretiran kao potez kista najdražeg vam umjetnika; svi se zapravo nesvijesno slažete da je Galliano “fucking fabulouse mastermind”.Osoba čije su kreacije sve samo ne pretenciozne, ali svakako usudim se reći, sebične. Sve su one samo fabula njegovog osobnog života. Kada biste pitali većinu ljudi u kojem trenutku se javila njihova ljubav prema Gallianu, svi će vam reći isto – prva debitantska revija za Dior Haute Couture. Isti odgovor vrijedi i za mene, u to vrijeme moja ljubav prema Gallianu bila je neizrecivo velika. Kolekcija inspirirana Francuskim beskućnicima, koja je podigla obrve mnogih modnih moćnika, na kraju dana nikoga nije ostavila bez kritike. Moja vlastita kritika dolazila je iz ogranka svijesti laika i buntovnog teenagera koji je živio od grunge pokreta te idolima poput tadašnjeg “all eyes on me” ljubavnog para Moss/Depp.

Kada sada razmišljam o tome.. Hvala Bogu da u to vrijeme nije bilo sladunjavih naziva power couple-a. Budući da Meep ne zvuči nimalo privlačno. Ew.

Stoga doživljaj Galliana kroz prizmu ovog kratkog članka nudi pomalo pristrano iskustvo, no ako ti leđa drže modni moćnici koji introvertno koliko i ekstrovertno pružaju krikove uzbuđenja i potopore Gallianu, koliko tada pristranost postaje objektivna? Na vama je za prosuditi djelovanjem vaše svijesti te vjere u to koliko se neka osoba zbilja može promijeniti. Ne znam da li je do povratničke Londonske lokacije Maison Margiela Spring Couture 2015, ili do kraljevsko crvene koja se proteže kroz kolekciju asimetričnih i destruktivnih komada tokom koje svaki sadrži notu Gallianove teatralnosti; ali odiše isključivo beskonačnim pitanjima, poput:

Da li je ovo vrhunac Gallianova stvaralaštva ili zahrđalost majstora umjetnosti? Trebamo li postaviti ljestvicu još više ili će ta ljestvica biti presudna Gallianovoj karijeri i općem stanju uma? Imajući na umu love –hate relationship Galliana i modnih novinara od samog povratka 2015. jedno je sigurno, nakon novog početka Galliano postaje modni borac u bitci u kojoj vodi sa prednošću – ljubavi prema stvaranju.

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